Supply Lines      10/07/2008  

Test-Driving the Bentley of Burgers: La Frieda Black Label

City burger circles were rocked this past summer by news that Pat La Frieda, the city’s foremost ground meat mogul, was preparing a special “Black Label” brand. The standard blend, or variations thereof, has already conquered the city, as has been written about exhaustively; but this new blend, said to be mixed late at night from secret ingredients and priced so prohibitively that only a few high-end clients could afford it, remained a mystery. Even I hadn’t tasted it, and I’m friends with the guy.

For the good of the city, therefore, the Feedbag organized a tasting at the Astor Center, convening a blue-ribbon burger panel. The participants included George Motz, author of Hamburger America; Nick Solares, burger critic for A Hamburger Today; Brett Reichler, corporate chef for the B.R. Guest group; Michael White, chef / partner at Alto and Convivio; Jim Leiken, chef at DB Bistro Moderne; Patrick Connelly, James Beard laureate and chef at Bobo; Andrew Fischel, owner of RUB; and “Philadelphia Mike” Colameco, host of WOR’s Food Talk. The burgers were cooked by Mike Price of Market Table on both an open grill and also a nonstick skillet. All the burgers were 8 oz. and cooked to medium rare.

Flareups make us love the griddle even more.Flareups make us love the griddle even more.

From left: Mark Pastore of La Frieda meats; Mike Colameco; Andrew Fischel; George Motz; Scott Smith; Michael White; Brett Reichler.
From left: Mark Pastore of La Frieda meats; Mike Colameco; Andrew Fischel; George Motz; Scott Smith; Michael White; Brett Reichler

Comments:

Patrick Connelly: “The juice is awesome…I’d almost save all this juice and serve it to mop up with some bread.”

Nick Solares: “It’s very steakhousy. The dry-aged flavor is really coming through. It’s ethereally tender.”

George Motz: “I like the blend; it’s really coarse. But whose hands will this burger fall into? It doesn’t matter how good it is if the person can’t cook it right.”

Mike Colameco: “I’d never garnish it with anything. A great bun, that’s it.”

Jim Leiken: “I was impressed by the sheer meatiness of it. It’s like little pieces of steak. That has a lot to do with the grind.”

Brett Reichler: “Hey, it’s dry-aged steak at half the price. In this day and age that’s not a bad thing.”

Mike Price: “It’s so rich. You really have to be careful cooking it. It’s like searing foie gras.”

Andrew Fischel, George Motz: “The griddle was definitely better. The flareups on the grill blacken it too much.” “I want to try it smashed flat next time!”

Comments

7 Responses to “Test-Driving the Bentley of Burgers: La Frieda Black Label”

  1. newyorkfoodie on October 7th, 2008 12:43 pm

    Hey Cutlets New York has not been the same without you. It is great to have you back. You are the only true insight into the NYC food and restaurant world. Good luck here on Citysearch pal you will be a great edition and make it what it should be.

    Hey where can someone eat one of these awesome looking burgers. This guy Pat LaFrieda is everywhere…

  2. Nick Solares on October 7th, 2008 1:13 pm

    Josh,

    Congratulations on the new blog, it looks lovely. Glad you are back I have missed you daily musings.

    Cheer!

  3. justbephoto on October 8th, 2008 11:25 am

    What is this an all boys club. Females have beef taste buds too!
    BE

  4. Q80 BurgerBelly on October 8th, 2008 7:21 pm

    So is it good for a steak burger or a good ol’ burger ?

  5. DocChuck on October 9th, 2008 2:56 pm

    WOW. What a great post.

    How ya’ been, Cutlets?

    DocChuck

  6. Tina Daly on November 25th, 2008 12:44 pm

    Where can I get a black label cheeseburger? Looking forward to your reply. Did not really care for Five Guys not great Help Thanks

  7. At Last! La Frieda Black Label Available to Public at City Burger | The Feedbag on December 3rd, 2008 9:15 am

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