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The Room

Fergus Henderson at The Breslin: The Summit Of Modern Meatitude

I was fortunate enough to go to The Breslin on Friday night for the second of the Fergus Henderson dinners. Henderson, you will remember, is the British chef whose advocacy of “nose to tail” cookery helped start the offal trend on both sides of the Atlantic; his London restaurant, St. John, is considered a shrine […]

Event Horizon

Izakaya Dinner to Fight for Interracial Marriage

When I first joined Hapa Kitchen, I thought it was simply a chance to cook some inventive Asian-influenced cuisine with a few friends. The fact that we were all the results of interracial marriages (hapa is a Hawaiian term, originally derogatory, for a person of mixed race) seemed none too important to me. As a child growing […]

Hamburger Hi-Jinx

Bill’s Bar and Burger Set to Blow; Opens Tonight

The day has long gone when Bill’s Bar and Burger was my little secret, based on an advance press tasting at Blue Fin last month. Now everybody is sky-high on the place, but it’s not just a handful of feinschmeckers like myself, George Motz, or the Hamburger Today guys – tonight the place opens to the public, […]

Event Horizon

The Last Bacon Tasting of 2009 is Fast Approaching!

While we’re on the subject of upcoming events, don’t forget — I am hosting a bacon tasting at Jimmy’s No. 43 on October 20 at 7:30. As usual, I’ll be guiding 20 porcine novices through the culture and chemistry of pork-belly preparation, pairing six artisanal bacons with six craft porters and giving tasting notes for […]